Wednesday 31 July 2013
Mclaren's blog
McLaren’s Blog.
Crinan Canal, LochGilphead.
Wednesday 31st July 2013.
Almighty God,
who filled the heart of Columba
with the joy of the Holy Spirit,
and with deep love for those in his care:
may your pilgrim people follow him,
strong in faith, sustained by hope,
and one in the love that binds us to you;
through Jesus Christ our Lord.
Collect (Special Prayer) for St. Columba.
On Saturday evening we made our way from Oban to Iona Island one of the highlights of our trip. We had sailed up the breathtakingly beautiful coast of the Isle of Mull.
It was wonderful to see the Abbey of Iona come into view. As there is no mooring pontoon, we had to anchor Pilgrim. After making sure she was secure we pumped up the dinghy and headed for the beach. We found a safe place to leave the dingy, to have a look around the island. It was Saturday evening, so all the day tourists had left, but there were still a good number of people around.
We saw a notice board, and were delighted to read, that the service on the Sunday morning at Iona Abbey, would be at 10.30am. We were both so pleased that we would be around for a service which would be in the Abbey and be led by members of the Iona community. After acquiring this information we made our way to the bar, and after a long hot day, we had a couple of pints and a meal.
The next morning we woke to rain, so the first job before leaving Pilgrim was to wipe down the dinghy. I always think that it must be amusing for the onlooker to watch me and Chris get into the dinghy. But I have to say that our manoeuvres have got better.
It was wonderful to be in the Abbey, with pilgrims from all over the world. Some who were staying in the community house, others staying in guest houses and B & B’s around the island. The liturgy was wonderfully inclusive. The sermon was given by an artist who lives and works in inner city Sheffield. ( I think it was the theologian Matthew Fox, who said that ‘the true priests are artists’, after this sermon, I would be inclined to agree with him…………I am now into daydream mode…….how wonderful it would be if each church had a resident artist, expressing the gospel within a particular community.
Iona Abbey was built by St. Columba. He came from Ireland with twelve other monks. The Ven. Bede writes of Columba saying, “ There came from Ireland to Britain a priest and abbot named Columba, a true monk in life no less than habit; He came to Britain to preach the word of God to the kingdom of the northern picts.
Bede tells us that Columba converted a local king to Christianity and as a result was given Iona in order that he would build a monastery there. I always call Iona ‘Holy Islands big sister.’ Because it was from Iona that St. Aiden was sent on his missionary journey, which brought about the establishment of a monastery on Holy Island.
Like so many monasteries Iona were affected by the dissolution of religious houses by Henry VIII.
However in the nineteen thirties the Revd George MacLeod, had a new vision of a community, which begun with the rebuilding of the monastic quarters, and the development of new ways of seeking of living the gospel in the modern world.
The present community now has over 240 members, 15000 Associate members, made up of lay and ordained members, from many backgrounds and church traditions. The community focuses on rebuilding the common life, through working for social and political change. The community also produces inspiring and inclusive liturgy.
Chris and I came away feeling so uplifted, after the worship we had experienced. We walked around the ruins of the old Nunnery, we also walked around the shops, but some words from a friend, who had taken us to Jarrow, Reverend Gillian Pocock, said about Celtic shrines, “ Thin places…….the spirituality and the consumerism,” came to mind, so I decided not to spend too long in the shop.
Gillian if you are reading this, I’ve misquoted you a little, but the sentiment did speak to me!
ON PILGRIMAGE IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT WHEN THERE IS A HIGH THIS WILL BE FOLLOWED BY A SEVERE LOW!!!!!
Chris and I left Iona, hoping to visit a dwelling that is supposed to have been a place where St. Columba stayed when his boat was stormbound. Pilgrims bow was pointing just a couple of miles from the site, when suddenly the engine stopped. The Skipper has already written about this, but the next day after refuelling, we were making our way along the Crinan Canal, Pilgrim was in a chamber of many locks. Chris and I have never been in this situation in this boat. We have nine years of experience of narrow boats…….how ever Pilgrim is not a narrow boat, she is much heavier…….unless the locks are emptied slowly the person holding her ropes while water is released into the chamber is going to loose control. This is what happened, I had opened a paddle on the lock gate too fast and suddenly Pilgrim, was bouncing around the lock chamber with no control, her sides smashing into the sides. The Skipper desperately, trying to take control. In the ensuing chaos and panic, tempers rose, words were said in anger……….and Pilgrim ended up with a warped bow.
PILGRIM: Tell me about it!
Jeanette: Do you mind this is MY BLOG. No doubt you will write your own version when you get a chance.
PILGRIM: I will, Oh believe me I will.
Anyway, by the end of the evening there were threats of returning home and getting rid of the boat. The skipper and I going for long, solo walks.
However, things have moved on, I am writing this blog, last night I thought I would never be writing another one. Chris is putting in new windows to Pilgrim’s wheelhouse and we have plans for the next few days, visiting friends on The Isle of Arran, visiting Holy Island (Another one,) site of another Celtic shrine, which today has many Buddhist pilgrims flocking there, as a Buddhist monastery has recently been built.
I am looking forward to Wales and Cornwall, and for more spiritual adventures in Pilgrim. While I have been writing this blog, I had a wonderful text from a member of St. Mark’s congregation, who obviously knew about the incident yesterday. It brought tears to my eyes I must say, I would like to share it with all our readers.
Hi Jeanette I hope you are feeling a little more chipper than earlier.
As usual I cannot think of any quotes from the bible, but we are all gunning for you to succeed together with Chris. The good Lord has not and will not give up on you. We used to call it the channels, so when you feel down the Lord cares. And when your elated the heavens will sing all the louder.
This text is just so typical of the kindness we have received from so many people over the last two months through comments on Facebook, e-mails, and the odd phone call. ( As well as people looking after Nelson.)
Anyway, nearly ‘beer o’clock’. I will finish this blog with a prayer, which I found in the Iona Worship book that Chris and I purchased before leaving Iona. (Sorry Gillian…… we succumbed after all.)
It spoke to me this afternoon, after the chaos yesterday, I hope it will speak to those who read our blog, and are following us on this pilgrimage, but feel that life is just such a mess at times.
Loving God,
you have led us to this place,
not to shield us from heartache
and the pain of human life,
but to heal us and inspire us,
and to gently redirect us. Amen.
On my ‘solo walk’ yesterday I came across a tiny church, I went inside for a while. As I was leaving I saw these words;
Nothing you could do will make God love you more.
Nothing you do will make God love you less.
Tuesday 30 July 2013
In Crinan Canal after excellent trip to Iona and not so good journey to Crinan!
Skipper’s Experience was put to the test yesterday when the engine stopped in very light winds and in a potentially strong current just north of the notorious Gulf of Corryvreckan with lethal tides and a whirlpool. I did panic, according to Jeanette, and in my hurry to get the diesel into the engine system which needed bleeding I undid the filter instead of the bleed screw and had to bypass the water filter to get the engine to start. The engine still didn’t go so we sailed in very light winds going nowhere. Eventually I bled the fuel system and we went at 2.5 knots to conserve the emergency fuel we had of 10 litres. I thought we would have 4 hours maximum if we went slow but it was painful and very very nervous waiting for the land to pass by and get into shallow water to anchor. Got to an anchorage by 10pm and very relieved indeed. But still needed to get fuel the next day. No petrol station on the sea you see!!!
Got fuel the next day but had to sail 5 miles, we used sail for 3 and had a favourable tide but had to motor into a marina with posh boats, if the engine stopped we would skewer a fibreglass boat with our bowsprit and cost a few pounds on the insurance. Very relieved to fill the tank and learnt a very important lesson.
KEEP A DETAILED LOG OF THE HOURS MOTORED.
KEEP THE EMERGENCY FUEL CAN TOPPED UP- DID THAT
DIN’T UNSCREW THE FILTER, JUST THE BLEED SCREW.
CHECK THE TANK EVERY OTHER DAY
DON’T LET THE TANK RUN DRY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anyway, lessons learnt are better than not doing anything risky.
Friday 26 July 2013
26th July
MCLARENS BLOG-PILGRIM’S PROGRESS.
25/26TH JULY 2013.
NEPTUNE FLIGHT, FORT WILLIAM.
As I write this Pilgrim is in the shadow of Ben Nevis, which at the moment despite bright sunshine the peak is covered in cloud, hopefully by the time we take a glass of wine to the stern tonight the cloud will have dispersed.
On Tuesday we had decided to leave Pilgrim for a day or so, to visit Sandaig where Gavin Maxwell, wrote his book ‘Ring of bright Water’. The book concerns the years he reared two pet otters at his home Camusfearna.
The beginning of many books and novels can have a habit of becoming part of our literary sub-conscious, often becoming the focus of pub quiz questions. For example, the beginning of Daphne du Mauriers, Rebecca, “ Last night I dreamt I was at Mandalay.” Or the beginning, of Dickens ‘A Tale of Two Cities’ “ It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.” But even though I am familiar with so many novels for me, the one that gets the ‘Ahh factor’ is Gavin Maxwells ‘Ring of Bright water.’
I sit in pitch pine panelled kitchen-living room, with an otter asleep upon its back among the cushions on the sofa, forepaws in the air, and with the expression of tightly shut concentration that very small babies wear in sleep.............
Beyond the sea, whose waves break on the beach no more than a stone’s throw distant, and encircling, mist-hung mountains. ............
This place has been now for ten years and more, and wherever the changes of my life may lead me in the future it will remain my spiritual home until I die.
In the book Maxwell describes his rearing of the otter Mijbil, and her successor Edal. Since reading the book in my early twenties I have always wanted to visit the site of Camusfearna (The name of Maxwell’s House)
Sadly the house was burnt down, during Maxwell’s residency, tragically the otter Edal was a victim of that fire. It was arranged that Edal should be buried at Sandaig, and when Maxwell died he arranged to have his ashes buried there.
Maxwell’s life was nothing like as it was portrayed in the film, of the same name.
( Although he did live in the Arabian marshes, as was suggested in the film.) He was an adventurer, artist, he had seen active service e during the war, and trained to be an artist. However he was a man with personal demons, and although he related so well to animals, he often had problematic relationships with people close to him.
In fact in his biography, he had a friendship with the metaphysical poet Kathleen Raine. They ended up falling out, and she was very hurt, and it seems that she put a curse on the land. Of course when Camusfearna, burnt down this was something Maxwell remembered. After the house burnt down life was never the same again for Gavin Maxwell.
So often when one goes on a pilgrimage, you wonder if the place will be as you imagined.
So Chris and I left Pilgrim on the Caledonian Canal. We caught a bus from Laggon Locks, which would take us to Shiel Bridge, we would get another bus eight miles to Glenelg from which there would be an approximately five mile walk. The first bus we caught, no problem. But at Shiel Bridge, we waited for our next bus, which was late, after three quarters of an hour it hadn’t arrived. So Chris telephoned the number that was on the timetable. A woman answered the phone, the woman who was married to the driver of the bus. Apparently the bus ‘only comes on request.’ Silly us we thought that ‘on request’ meant we put our hands out to when the bus came inform the driver to stop. Anyway we were told that the bus would be at Shiel Bridge in two hours time. Luckily we had packed sandwiches. Shiel Bridge is surrounded by mountains, and we sat by a beautiful old bridge eating our lunch and admiring the view.
The next two hours passed quickly, and the bus came at the time arranged. There were already four ladies on the bus. Very chatty and keen to point out various mountains and beauty spots. The ride was certainly a white knuckle ride, turning corners on high mountain ranges. These four ladies where interested in our trip, and were used to visitors making their way to Sandaig, to visit the isolated spot where Gavin Maxwell had made his home.
It turned out that one of these women, Liz ran a bed and breakfast, we said we may be interested, as the plan had been that we would stay the night in Glenelg. She was dropped off at her house and this arrangement was left open. The bus took the rest of us into the main street of Glenelg, with the Isle of Skye, just acoss the water. We disembarked, and the local shop keeper, heard us talking and saying our farewells to the last of the ladies on the bus. He mentioned that he was about to go off on his deliveries and would be passing the path that takes visitors to Sandaig islands. The lady we had travelled with said she would ring Liz, to say we would take up her offer of B&B.
Chris and I were knocked out by the kindness and hospitality of people........generally the kind of hospitality you only find in isolated areas where people live on the edge and rely on one another.
The shopkeeper dropped us of at a path that runs down, to Sandaig, we started our walk down to the bay, the site of Camusfearna, which took us through Forestry Commission land. There was much active logging going on, although much of the land was made up of felled or dead trees, and the landscape looked something out of battlefield scene of a film. There were no signs down to the bay, but we continued walking in this very uninspiring landscape.
Eventually we entered a wood, which opened up on the beach of ‘Camusferna’ where the house stood and is covered in waist high Ferns, but there were some well worn paths. We found the memorial stone where Maxwell’s house stood, and where his ashes are buried. I turned towards the sea, and there was the view that he would have seen, the view that appears in the illustrations and photographs in his books, as well as the breathtaking view of the mountains of the Isle of Skye. We walked along the beach, and we saw footprints. Chris looked closer at them..................could they possibly have been otter footprints we like to think so, particularly as otters have been seen in that area again.
I collected some shells and also a piece of driftwood. We walked over to the stream from the waterfall, imagining the otters, Mij, Edal and Teko playing in the water. Eventually making our way to Edal’s grave, the otter who died in the fire which destroyed Camusfearna. On the grave is written ‘ Whatever joy she gave you, give back to nature.’ After laying some shells, on Edal’s grave adding our offerings to the hundreds already there.
We made our way back over to were the remains of Gavin Maxwell lay, again laid some shells, but I also laid the piece of driftwood I had picked up on the beach. Driftwood because to me towards the end of his life, he was like a person adrift, engulfed in his bitterness and broken dreams.
As we looked back over the bay, before leaving I couldn’t help feeling that there was a pervading sense of sadness hanging over the bay. I don’t know what I expected on coming here, but there is no visitor centre, speaking about Maxwells life with the otters and other animals that came into the bay, or of the work of conservation that his work inspired, the ongoing conservation of otters, and other animals. I can’t say I was disappointed in our visit, Sandaig is isolated, wild and atmospheric, just as he described in his books. But it does seem strange that he is not acknowledged here in any way. But maybe that’s the way he would have wanted it.
We returned to the footpath up the hill. We were looking at the devastation of the trees, when suddenly Chris stopped me, and pointed up, and there on a ridge was a deer looking down on us. This was a wonderful moment as in the books Maxwell writes about the deer that go down to the bay. This deer represented for us what ‘Camusfearna’ meant to us, an affinity with nature and wild life. Luckily Chris was able to capture the deer on his camera, that picture will go on my study wall, and remind me of our pilgrimage to ‘the ring of bright water.’
We made our way up the hill back to the road, and to our four and half mile walk into Glenelg, where an apartment and a hot bath were waiting.
Sunday 21 July 2013
21st July Vicar's thoughts.
VICARS BLOG: 21st JULY- FORT AUGUSTUS.
Every day people are straying away from the Church and going back to God - Lenny Bruce.
We are now at a point in our journey, when we are on the Southward course, home. (Slowly)
But I have in the last week or so, considered that this journey is an adventure. A spiritual adventure, visiting the sites of Christian saints who have been for many years an inspiration to me, it’s been an adventure in nature encountering the wildlife and breathtaking scenery the British coastline has to offer.
The pilgrimage has also made us aware of extreme economic polarities, for example there are days we are moored in marinas with boats and equipment that are worth thousands of pounds. Then for example we are moored in the harbour of Great Yarmouth. When taking Nelson, for a walk we became aware of the social deprivation, which was so evident. We have been moored up in harbours with people who have money and leisure to enjoy the pleasure of sailing, aware for others like fisherman, for whom the water is a hard and dangerous task master.
We are in Fort William, when last time we came, there was a community of monks, sadly the community have since left and the beautiful Abbey, is now an accommodation centre. When in Elgin we saw that many churches had closed, and yet the Findhorn Foundation,( just a couple of miles up the road.) a community associated with ‘New Age Spirituality’ had hundred of people staying at the caravan site for a holidays and attending courses.
I was recently at a meeting where James Langstaff, Bishop of Rochester, spoke. And one of the things he questioned, was that he thought it was a sadness that so many Religious Communities are closing down, at a time when people are so interested in spirituality.
During this week, I said to Chris, they may be interested in spirituality, but not the one the church has to offer.
I must admit, that if its Christianity is about dry, ‘Middle Class Churchianity’, is it any wonder people refuse to come through our doors?
But having said all this I am still very hopeful, many churches are engaging in ‘new expressions of church.’ Taking the risk! Stepping out in faith, doing something different . I have always been keen on those ‘church events or ‘new congregations’, that happen on the fringe, on the edge of the church. In recent years a new form of church is happening in recognition that for many people a church building is not a place that some people will find it easy to meet God. That many people actually, meet God better in the world of nature. (God’s second book as it is often called.) So as a response Forest churches have started. (Yesterday while talking to a man while I was holding a rope, as Pilgrim went through a lock, I heard for the first time of eco congregations…….I will have to google that one.)
So this trip has been one indeed of extremes, a time of questioning, and an opportunity to read some wonderful books. My favourite, and this is one I would recommend to my unbelieving friends, my druid and new age friends, my Gay friends……as well as to people who have been Christians for years, How to be a bad Christian ……and a better human being.’ Written by Dave Tomlinson, it is wonderfully affirming, for those who have been attending to church for years, but also affirms those who do not go to church, but more importantly Tomlinson gives a wonderful image of the church if we were to risk embracing diversity and difference.
God is not a Christian. His concern is for all his children…..that Christians do not have monopoly on God is an almost trite observation.
Desmond Tutu.
*Forest church. Author -Bruce Stanley.
21st July
PILGRIM’S PROGRESS.
21st JULY- FORT AUGUSTUS, SCOTLAND.
Pilgrim speaking here!!! Hi good people, I am now moored in Fort Augustus, having sailed under canvas the eighteen miles of Loch Ness. It was lovely having the engine turned off, enjoying the silence and just being moved by the wind. Unfortunately there was no evidence of the monster, although one point, I did hear the Captain say, “I think the Loch Ness Monster must be under the boat according to our depth gauge we are in very shallow waters”. I waited with excitement, to think the Loch Ness monster was under my hull.” But then the Captain, realized that the Loch is so deep, 100m+ the gauge wasn’t responding properly. I felt some what disappointed.
Anyway today is a ‘rest day’, Her Holiness, (Jeanette) will no doubt have a book in her hand, for most of the day. The Captain as always, when he gets a bit of spare time, after planning routes, cooking, doing the laundry, gives me attention. Her Holiness, I have to say DOES DO THE WASHING UP, SHES’S ALSO VERY GOOD AT POURING WINE!!! This morning he is trying to repair a winch, that for days had loose fittings, her Holiness had noticed that they were loose days ago and had failed to mention it to the Captain. It wasn’t until he quickly had to change from one winch to another because the direction of the wind had changed, that parts of it had gone over the side of the boat……..and are now sitting on the bottom of Loch Ness!!!
Her Holiness then decided to tell the Captain that she had noticed the top of the winch had been loose days ago……..the rest of the trip down along Loch Ness, was shrouded in a heavy atmosphere…….in fact you could have cut it with a knife.
This morning we all said Morning Prayer, and in the silence after the Gospel, I was reflecting on my favourite Psalm, which is Psalm 93, in which………
JEANETTE: Hang on a minute I’m the one that’s meant to be doing the spiritual reflections.
PILGRIM: Well, lately you’ve not written anything spiritual, so I thought I might do it for a change. Let me have a go, you can proof read it and if you don’t like it you can delete it.
JEANETTE: Mmmm ok.
PILGRIM: Well, that put her in her place.
As I was saying, the writer of Psalm 93 is reflecting ( Her Holiness likes that word…….that’s why she’s slow on writing blogs…..she says she likes to reflect……I call it sloth.) The writer of Psalm 93, is reflecting on God’s greatness. But my favourite verses of the Psalm, are verses three and four.
“ The seas have lifted up, Lord,
the seas have lifted up their voice;
the seas have lifted up their pounding waves.
Mightier than the thunder of the great waters,
mightier than the breakers of the sea
the Lord on high is mighty.”
I like to recite this to myself when we are ‘White knuckle sailing’, and we’ve done that a few times since we left Ramsgate. When we are motoring or sailing against Force 6, Westerly, and the Captain is holding the tiller with both hands, Jeanette is clinging on to the roof of the wheelhouse.
This Psalm reminds me that no matter how fierce the winds are, no matter how big the waves are that God is mightier, and that we are safe.
There have been a few times when I’ve seen her Holiness’s face turn white with fear. The first was when we were sailing towards Inverness. We were approaching Kessock Bridge, as the road bridge was approaching, it seemed as though my mast wasn’t going to go through the bridge. I heard the panic in her voice when she asked the Captain, if he was certain that the bridge was indeed higher than my mast.
Then when making our way down a small canal, towards Loch Ness, Jeanette took over the tiller, while the captain went into the cabin towards the front. In the corner of her eye, she saw a sign, but didn’t register for a few moments what was on the sign. (Her Holiness is a dreadful daydreamer.)
The following scenario occurred:
Jeanette: Oh heck, those signs were about electric cables going over the canal……something about height of masts.
Masts appear. Her Holiness looks at mast and height of looming cables. The grip on my tiller gets tighter…....we move closer to the cables…….Her eyebrows rise….eyes almost popping out from under them.
Jeanette: Oh God, we’re going to hit the cables.
Because Her Holiness is not concentrating, I start to move the rocky bank of the canal:
Pilgrim: We’re gonna crash!
Jeanette: Oh God we’re gonna be electrocuted……..we’re gonna die……we’re gonna die…….Chris get back here now.
Pilgrim: Oh, my beautiful red paint work, we’re gonna crash.
Chris starts making his way to the back, ‘Whats up?’.
Jeanette: We’re gonna hit the cables……….Oh heck we’re gonna crash.
Pilgrim: We’re gonna crash.
Her Holiness realizes we ARE NOT going to hit the cables, makes a quick manoeuvre…….we all hold our breath..(I don’t breath…but every inch of me was expecting to crash.) I suddenly start moving towards the middle of the canal again…….
Jeanette: Huh……I got us out of that little situation……I knew I could do it!!!!!!!
However we still have the issue of the broken winch.
Thursday 18 July 2013
Monday 15 July 2013
Going into Dunbar, Note Jeanette is at the helm, very good helming considering the habour entrance in only 30ft wide.
Pilgrim from someone else's perceptive, we never get to see her like this!!!!!!!
We are currently in Lossiemouth as the wind is too strong on our nose again. Trying to get to Findhorn!!
Hospitality on Pilgrim. Provisions provided by Joanne & Andrew. Good too share evening also with Caspar & Sorrel.
Note
Wednesday 10 July 2013
Jeanette 10th july
VICARS BLOG - 10TH JULY.
DUNBAR HARBUR, SCOTLAND.
Over the last week we have certainly sailed and made some headway on our pilgrimage. Yesterday we sailed into Dunbar harbour to be greeted by my sister and her family. They had prepared a meal, as well as alcoholic provisions, and we sat in the cabin of pilgrim
Highlights of the week have been;
1. Sailing into Whitby, and seeing the Abbey from the sea.
1. Going to County Durham, and being joined by friends Gillian and Douglas who took as to two places associated with the Venerable Bede. St. Paul’s Jarrow were he lived most of his life and wrote his history of the church in Britain, and St. Peters Church Monkwearmouth, which was another house associated with his community. We also visited Bedes World and exhibition centre about Bede and his community.
2. Visiting Durham Cathedral, and taking part in a service in Durham Cathedral, at the shrine of St. Cuthbert giving thanks for the Lindisfarne Gospels which are in Durham City, at present.
4. Sailing into Holy Island accompanied by a party of inquisitive seals.
Later that evening as we were sitting on the boat, drinking wine, and we heard the beautiful but eerie sound of them singing as they basked in the late evening sunshine, on a beach opposite Pilgrim’s anchorage.
5. Walking around Lindisfarne Priory ruins the home of St. Cuthbert and Aiden.
There has been so much to reflect on and give thanks to God for. On Sunday when Chris and I said Morning Prayer on the back of Pilgrim, the focus of our prayers was the work of religious communities today, their continuing commitment to prayer and hospitality. And having seen so much beauty in our coastline, and in the variety of birds we’ve seen, and the friendliness of the seals, we prayed for all those who work in conservation.
Themes that were embraced by the Celtic church.
Almighty God,
who called your servant Cuthbert from following the flock
to follow your Son and to be a shepherd of your people:
in your mercy grant that we, following his example,
may bring those who are lost home to your fold;
through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen.
Some recollections from our journey to Holy Island. The words above are the collect (Special Prayer) for St. Cuthbert, who was Bishop of Lindisfarne, (Holy Island). We anchored at Holy Island, arriving in the evening after a long day’s sailing, having left Seaham at 5.50am. It was lovely to sea Holy Island loom into the distance, looking like a huge rock. Gradually the castle came into view. As we arrived we were greeted by a number of seals, who looked with curiosity at as we set about releasing our anchor.
I was at the helm bringing the boat in being careful to follow the buoys. Chris and I have both got more confident in handling the boat as well as working as a team.
After a meal we sat out on the back of Pilgrim with a glass of wine, listening to the seals ‘singing’. A strangely eerie sound, but also rather beautiful. This morning I had my early morning cup of tea, again sitting on the back of the boat listening to the seals dawn chorus, looking at them through my binoculars.
Thought of Nelson, he would have joined in the chorus and the seals would have replied!!!!!!!!!!!! Now in Scotland and over to look at the Isle of May and onto Arbroath, then Stonehaven – Peterhead –Whitehills-Findhorn and then Inverness, into the Caledonian Canal.
Tuesday 9 July 2013
Skipper’s Log.
Anxious leaving Holy Island after my experience in 2010 when my little 24ft boat was pushed over by a large wave. I avoided the strong streams that set between the islands this time and it was a misty exit from the anchorage but also a very smooth piece of navigation with Jeanette at the helm lining up the buoys and looking back to see we were not being pushed off course by the stream and the wind. By different from 2010 when I had to leave in a hurry and went too far out into the choppy sea.
“I awoke uncomfortable, still in my sailing gear, as I might need to be up at any moment. The day and night before were full of marvellous views and perfect sailing conditions. I sailed until 10pm until the night came in. I wanted to anchor just in the lee of Holy Island but the darkness was coming in and as the coast was unfamiliar, and although I had charts, I decided it was better to anchor just off the beach in enough water allowing for the tidal rise and fall. The wind was off the coast and I had confidence that I would be pushed off, rather than towards the shore. These beliefs was partially confirmed, but changed early the next morning, I sensed something wrong. The boat was now uncomfortable and it began to feel like being in washing machine but in four directions and no predictability……………..
One hour later and in the middle of a strong tidal stream, I seemed to be paralysed, by now it was difficult to extricate my feelings and experience from that of the boat, if the boat was in danger so was I, if the boat was sailing perfecting through the water then my feelings and thoughts reflected the same. There was a vital synthesis between the boat and my wellbeing, physically and psychologically.
Bang…. the boat was over and my safety harness stretched tight. The boat had been hit by a large wave and I didn’t see it coming. The boat was over to almost 90 degrees with the mast and sails about to touch the water. The boat self- righted very slowly, out of the water, back to an upright position and the deck seemed washed clean. Now the fear and anxiety took over, is the boat damage, will it move? Yes it moved, and the tiller was fine. I saw another wave and it was going to do the same. I steered away just in time for the wave to hit but this time on the stern and the boat raced away digging into the trough of the next wave. I must slow down, get the hatch secure and get control of the boat. The sea was confused, one tidal stream was meeting the main current and the boat was seemed to be very slow. Panic seemed to control me, I started the engine, thinking that would help, but the boat was rocking so much the propeller was out of the water more than in. I tried sailing with a tiny headsail and various angles against the waves but I was at the mercy of the sea. I moved at a very slow speed less that one knot and had to get out of this trap”
How very different this time!!! It has been glorious weather for sunning but very little wind. Motoring for too long and the engine noise gets into your head. We use the sails when we can but for an hour or so. You put the sail up and the wind goes away, you take it down and the wind increases, what a test of patience. But when the sails are up it is glorious just to hear the sea, the water flowing by and the noise of the birds.
We have reached just over 500 nautical miles. Another week and will be reaching Inverness where the Caledonian Canal begins. We are in Dunbar. See the photo comparison.
Thursday 4 July 2013
skipper's log
Skipper’s Log.
Been a very ambivalent week of emotions, challenges and also past memories of my last trip around the coast in 2010. Leaving Wells-Next-The-Sea without Nelson was difficult, but when we met the swell in the extended approach channel we knew it was the right decision even though Nelson would have loved walking in Scotland. The channel dries to sand. We saw this as we waited 3 days before as the buoys sat on the sand, and within 1 hour the sand was covered by water. The swell on the way out was due to wind over tide. The wind pushes up the water to form larger waves and often confused if the ground underneath is shallow or varying in depth. Jeanette admitted to being scared a few days later but confidence in one’s boat and own competences gave me no hesitation to carry on. We had the weather report for wind 3-4, occasional 5 and clear fine weather. The Wash was still and the sea became glass in places, another day of motoring, not strictly sailing but you cannot be a purist on these trips. We have done too many hours motoring as the wind has been on our head, and you cannot sail directly into the wind. You need to be at 45% to the wind which is called beating to windward. It often means the boat can be over at an angle and you make zigzags into the direction you wish to travel. On my coastal navigation course the instructor said double your time when beating to windward. That would have meant 20 hours. The East coast is often sandy, flat and can be very windy as there are no hills to slow the wind down. We anchored in the River Humber overnight. No problems with the anchor, just getting it back up in the morning, by physical brute force. We have no electric anchor winch, but these can use all your battery power in a few minutes if you are not careful anyway.
Anchored again at Filey the next day, beautiful coastline becoming cliffs and hills after Spurn Head. We had a great day sailing with the foresail alone, got up to 6.7 knots. It was very heavy steering on the helm and at times we could have done with a crew. Again, you compromise, we could have done with a crew of four to really use this boat to its limit but it’s a Sabbatical, not a race!! The main sail would be too much for 2 of us with winds over 3-4 (16 knots). At times it was a struggle to keep the boat from veering off. We were at a angle of 50 degrees and the best thing to do it ease off and come away from the wind. When the wind lessened the boat steered itself!! For a steel boat weighing approximately 9 tons, she can sail very well and would keep a good speed on open water.
We now have our fixed VHF/DSC radio in place as we were relying on handheld radios which was fine but their batteries needed charging regularly and we have plenty of main battery power anyway so why not use it. The previous owner left us with 3 brand new 220 amp batteries making a total of 660amps!! Hand held radios are good for entering ports as you can stay at the helm and talk to the Harbour Master without going below. Fixed Radios have the advantage of longer range and it is safer to have a fixed radio. The antenna is at the top of the 16m mast so you get very good distance range. We now hear every conversation with the Coast Guard clearly. We heard a skipper of a large cargo ship being told to slow down to 6 knots 3 times whilst entering the Humber. Language barriers can sometimes also cause confusion between large international vessels!!
The boat is looking like a sailing vessel and we are all “sorted” below in the galley with a place for everything. Wind warnings are in force today up to 6. We are in Seaham and visiting Durham so the wind can blow all she wants for today, problem is, a swell can be left the day after!!! WE havew travelled 166nm in the last week,making up for delays. Toatl is now 422nm. Does sound much but it's quite an achievement with all the strong winds. 5 days spent in Great Yarmouth was due to very heavy seas and wind.
Regards, Chris
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